Powerful Crank’s Ridge Kasar Devi, Almora in Uttarakhand

In Almora lies the mystical Crank’s Ridge Kasar Devi, a place where DH Lawrence vacationed and Uma Thurman found her name! Philosophers, poets, scholars, painters, musicians, all sought inspiration in this magical landscape, drawn by what George Harrison described as “life divine”.

The Kasar Devi Temple

At the heart of Kasar Devi village stands the Kasar Devi Temple, a centuries-old shrine dedicated to Goddess Kasar Devi—an aspect of Durga. The temple, believed to date back to the 2nd century CE, is perched dramatically atop a hill, offering panoramic vistas and deep tranquility. A celebrated Kartik Poornima fair takes place here every November–December, drawing pilgrims and sadhus from far and wide

If you’re seeking a transformative experience, lace up your walking shoes and make your way to Almora.

Start your journey at the Uday Shankar Academy in secluded Falsima village where the famous dance maestro Uday Shankar crafted a unique dance form blending Indian classical dance with Kumaoni Ramlila. His experiments here, from 1936 to 1942, garnered him worldwide acclaim and attracted talents like Guru Dutt, Zohra Segal, and  Ravi Shankar.

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Spiritual Seekers and Sages

Crank’s Ridge has welcomed icons of spirituality and consciousness transformation:

• Swami Vivekananda meditated here and documented his spiritual experiences.
• Lama Anagarika Govinda and Li Gotami set up a Buddhist monastery, attracting Tibetan Buddhist scholars and seekers.
• Timothy Leary and the hippie movement cemented its reputation as a hub for alternative living.
• Anandamayi Ma, Neem Karoli Baba, and other mystics graced these slopes with their presence.

Artistic and Literary Connections

Not just mystics, but also renowned writers, poets, and musicians have left their mark:

• Allen Ginsberg, Peter Orlovsky, and Gary Snyder visited the Ridge.
• Bob Dylan, Cat Stevens, D. H. Lawrence, and other world-famous personalities have all been drawn to its liberating atmosphere.
• The Ridge was immortalized in memoirs, poetry, and countless tales of self-discovery.

Where is Crank’s Ridge Kasar Devi?

Crank’s Ridge is a lofty, pine-forested spur just outside the quaint village of Kasar Devi, about 8 kilometers from Almora in Uttarakhand. The ridge lies on the way to the ancient Kasar Devi Temple, overlooking sweeping valleys and snow-clad Himalayan peaks, from Bandarpunch in the west to Api in far eastern Nepal.

Falsima village to Simtola

From Falsima village, trek to Simtola, where Uday Shankar envisioned a permanent arts center. This serene ridge, now an eco-park, boasts remarkable flora and fauna amidst Granite Hill and Hiradhungi (or Diamond Hill).

Traverse through pine-dotted landscapes and homesteads to reach Crank’s Ridge. Along the way, soak in panoramic views of Almora town, the majestic Hawabagh Plateau, and the snow-capped peaks of Panchachuli.

What to Do and See

1. Walk the Pine Trails

Stroll along winding paths under ancient pine trees and let the crisp mountain air rejuvenate you. The forested ridge offers soul-soothing walks, quiet corners for meditation, and enchanting birdsong for company. The views of the Himalayas are breathtaking throughout the year.

2. Meditate at Power Spots

Many visitors come to meditate, absorbing the unique energies said to be present due to Van Allen Belt intersections and geomagnetic anomalies. Find a quiet nook, a sunny rock, or a shady pine grove and let your thoughts drift—meditation here feels effortless for many.

3. Visit the Kasar Devi Temple

A short hike uphill brings you to the Kasar Devi Temple complex. Here, you can participate in local rituals, light lamps at the akhand jyoti (eternal flame), and pay your respects in sacred cave shrines dedicated to the Goddess and Lord Shiva. The sense of peace is palpable.

4. Explore Spiritual and Historical Sites

• Sunyata Cave: Once home to the Danish mystic Alfred Sorensen (Sunyata Baba), this cave offers contemplative silence.
• Buddhist Monastery: Lama Govinda’s Drikung Kagyu monastery is a center of Buddhist learning and meditation.
• Historic Guesthouses: Remnants of hippie-era retreats and writers’ cottages dot the ridge—each has a story.

5. Watch Sunrise and Sunset

The ridge is famous for golden sunrises and magical sunsets over the valleys. Bring your camera or simply soak in the natural beauty. The air is pure, the skies often clear, and the sense of wonder unmatched.

6. Attend the Kartik Poornima Fair

If you visit in late autumn, don’t miss the Kasar Devi Fair—a vibrant festival with music, stalls, local artisanal crafts, and centuries-old rituals.

7. Sample Local Cafés and Homestays

Over the years, laid-back cafés and charming homestays have popped up near Kasar Devi, serving organic food, steaming chai, and healthy snacks to the eclectic mix of travelers, artists, and digital nomads that frequent these slopes

Suggested Read: Almora to Binsar: Explore on the way attractions 

Kasar Devi Temple

The Kasar Devi Temple, situated on the hill, holds on Crank’s Ridge, significance due to its association with the Van Allen belt gap. Dating back to the 2nd century, this enchanting shrine was constructed by ancient Kassites, who migrated to the region from West Asia around 900 BC. The temple derives its name from this group, honoring the deity Kasar Devi. Surrounding the temple are rock shelters believed to have provided refuge to pastoralists and seekers.

Suggested Read: Mahavatar Babaji Cave: Mystical space in the Himalayas

Drikung Kagyu Monastery & Meditation Center

Descending a kilometer leads to the Drikung Kagyu Monastery , Crank’s Ridge,  known for its distinctive lineage of oral instruction. The Kagyu lineage, originating from the essence of reality, transcends conventional notions of space and time. Established by Lama Angarika Govinda and his wife, painter Li Gautami, this monastery holds deep spiritual significance. Lama Angarika chronicled his journey from Almora to Tibet in his captivating book, “The Way of the White Clouds.”

Like other energized spaces in Crank’s Ridge, the monastery became a hub of activity, drawing Buddhist scholar Robert Thurman and his wife Nena von Schlebrugge. Accompanying them was their three-year-old daughter, Uma Thurman, who would later become a celebrated Hollywood actress. It was here that Uma acquired her name.

How to Get to Crank’s Ridge Kasar Devi:

The closest airport is Pantnagar, 124 km away. Most travelers opt for a train to Kathgodam station, followed by a pre-hired taxi to Kasar Devi. Direct trains from Delhi and other cities are available. The drive from Kathgodam to Kasar Devi takes about 4 hours.

• Getting There: Almora is accessible by road from Kathgodam (nearest railway station) and Pantnagar (nearest airport). From Almora, local taxis or a short hike lead to Kasar Devi and Crank’s Ridge.

• Weather: Expect pleasant summers and crisp winters with clear skies. The monsoon months (July–September) bring lush green landscapes but also slippery paths.

• Stay Options: Choose from heritage homestays, eco-lodges, and boutique hotels that preserve the area’s tranquil vibe.

• Respect the Environment: The Ridge’s magic is preserved by its natural beauty. Carry back your litter, support local artisans, and embrace the calm

Where to Stay in Crank’s Ridge Kasar Devi:

Mohan’s Binsar Retreat offers comfortable accommodations. The Mudhouses provide a budget option with a kitchen and balcony, while the main property offers fancier rooms. Other options include Rudra Himalayan Retreat, Kasar Himalayan Heights, Ghughuti Homestay, Kasar Jungle Resort, Ganga Homestay, and more.

Culinary Tips

Kasar Devi is accessible year-round, but during monsoons, consult locals for road and weather conditions. Winter visits are feasible, but note that it gets cold after sunset. Snowfall may occur towards the end of December or early January.

Enjoy famous sweets like Bal Mithai and Singori in Almora and savor Pahadi tea, Bhatt Ki Daal, Pahadi Chicken, and Madua Ka Paratha in Kasar Devi. Explore nearby villages, visit Math village and Kalimath, and start your day early to make the most of your time. Ultimately, Kasar Devi is about slowing down, letting go, and finding joy in the moment.

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