Crank’s Ridge Kasar Devi, Almora in Uttarakhand

In Almora lies the mystical Crank’s Ridge, a place where DH Lawrence vacationed and Uma Thurman found her name! Philosophers, poets, scholars, painters, musicians, all sought inspiration in this magical landscape, drawn by what George Harrison described as “life divine”.

If you’re seeking a transformative experience, lace up your walking shoes and make your way to Almora.

Start your journey at the Uday Shankar Academy in secluded Falsima village where the famous dance maestro Uday Shankar crafted a unique dance form blending Indian classical dance with Kumaoni Ramlila. His experiments here, from 1936 to 1942, garnered him worldwide acclaim and attracted talents like Guru Dutt, Zohra Segal, and  Ravi Shankar.

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Falsima village to Simtola

From Falsima village, trek to Simtola, where Uday Shankar envisioned a permanent arts center. This serene ridge, now an eco-park, boasts remarkable flora and fauna amidst Granite Hill and Hiradhungi (or Diamond Hill). Traverse through pine-dotted landscapes and homesteads to reach Crank’s Ridge. Along the way, soak in panoramic views of Almora town, the majestic Hawabagh Plateau, and the snow-capped peaks of Panchachuli.

Celeb Tourists

Amongst the earliest giants to arrive at the serene slopes of the Crank’s Ridge was author of “Lady Chatterley’s Lover”, DH Lawrence, who spent two summers here, lured in by his artiste friends Earl and Acshah Brewster. The Brewsters built a beautiful home and studio on the Crank’s Ridge. While Acshah painted, Brewster utilized his stay here to compile a book on the life of the Buddha.

Bob Dylan and Cat Stevens, on a tour of Asia, came and fell in love with this landscape. Also, to come was Timothy Leary, father of the hippie movement and Professor of Psychology at Harvard. Beat generation poet, and Leary’s friend, Allen Ginsberg arrived soon after in 1962 and felt the ridge was a “little like the Catskills in Upstate New York, only more spiritual”.

Suggested Read: Almora to Binsar: Explore on the way attractions 

Kasar Devi Temple

The Kasar Devi Temple, situated on the hill, holds on Crank’s Ridge, significance due to its association with the Van Allen belt gap. Dating back to the 2nd century, this enchanting shrine was constructed by ancient Kassites, who migrated to the region from West Asia around 900 BC. The temple derives its name from this group, honoring the deity Kasar Devi. Surrounding the temple are rock shelters believed to have provided refuge to pastoralists and seekers.

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Drikung Kagyu Monastery & Meditation Center

Descending a kilometer leads to the Drikung Kagyu Monastery , Crank’s Ridge,  known for its distinctive lineage of oral instruction. The Kagyu lineage, originating from the essence of reality, transcends conventional notions of space and time. Established by Lama Angarika Govinda and his wife, painter Li Gautami, this monastery holds deep spiritual significance. Lama Angarika chronicled his journey from Almora to Tibet in his captivating book, “The Way of the White Clouds.”

Like other energized spaces in Crank’s Ridge, the monastery became a hub of activity, drawing Buddhist scholar Robert Thurman and his wife Nena von Schlebrugge. Accompanying them was their three-year-old daughter, Uma Thurman, who would later become a celebrated Hollywood actress. It was here that Uma acquired her name.

How to Get to Kasar Devi:

The closest airport is Pantnagar, 124 km away. Most travelers opt for a train to Kathgodam station, followed by a pre-hired taxi to Kasar Devi. Direct trains from Delhi and other cities are available. The drive from Kathgodam to Kasar Devi takes about 4 hours.

Where to Stay in Kasar Devi:

Mohan’s Binsar Retreat offers comfortable accommodations. The Mudhouses provide a budget option with a kitchen and balcony, while the main property offers fancier rooms. Other options include Rudra Himalayan Retreat, Kasar Himalayan Heights, Ghughuti Homestay, Kasar Jungle Resort, Ganga Homestay, and more.

Culinary Tips

Kasar Devi is accessible year-round, but during monsoons, consult locals for road and weather conditions. Winter visits are feasible, but note that it gets cold after sunset. Snowfall may occur towards the end of December or early January.

Enjoy famous sweets like Bal Mithai and Singori in Almora and savor Pahadi tea, Bhatt Ki Daal, Pahadi Chicken, and Madua Ka Paratha in Kasar Devi. Explore nearby villages, visit Math village and Kalimath, and start your day early to make the most of your time. Ultimately, Kasar Devi is about slowing down, letting go, and finding joy in the moment.